The stone wall crumbles upon touch; instant powder. Overhead, the low wooden beams, painted a jet black, creak with all the years they’ve seen. In the corner, and old woman is yabbering away at her long-suffering husband about how nice the city is. She must be getting on for 80, but compared to her surroundings, she’s a spring chicken, a fresh-faced young thing ready to take on the world.
The dusty walls and looming ceilings belong to Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem in Nottingham, purportedly the oldest pub in Britain. Serving its first ale in 1189, nearly a millennium has flown by for this cramped sanctuary. Whilst any stories this antiquated have to be taken with a fist full of salt, the romantics would have it that Richard the Lionheart and his brave knights stopped off here and had one for the road before heading off to fight the Crusades in the Holy Land. That, should anyone need reminding, is a very long time ago. On the wall, there is a tapestry, depicting the city from Roman times to the present day, and Ye Olde Trip has been there for half of that timeline. It’s seen a lot.
In many ways, it is the quintessential British pub. It’s snug, it’s cosy, and has a selection of totally random beers on tap, with names like Cursed Galleon. But it’s not many such taverns that you can say are the starting point of a pub crawl through history.
Ye Olde Trip is just that, nestled into the walls of Nottingham Castle, a building which has taken many forms over the years. It was originally erected by William the Conqueror, two years after the Norman invasion of Britain in 1066. Throughout the years, this Midlands city has been seen as a prime piece of strategic real estate. A buffer between north and south, a gathering point for weary troops and a convenient launchpad for keeping the surrounding areas in order. It’s gone through many incarnations over the years too, having been burned down, left to ruin and remade for various purposes. These days, it’s simply a nice place to hang out. It’s home to a museum and gallery, while the perfectly manicured gardens glisten in the sunlight for picnickers and dozing office workers alike. The artistry that has gone into the gardening is astonishing. Floral displays are dotted around the grounds, while the grand centrepiece is a knight in shining armour that has been painstakingly sculpted out of a bush.
It’s all rather idyllic and sleepy, which despite the odd contretemps and the strategic importance, was what Nottingham was for the first 500 or so years of Ye Olde Trip’s life.